What Does Your Skin Need? Skincare at Every Age.

Hi Divas! Some of you have been asking great specific questions about specifics like "Do I need eye cream?" "What is the difference between day and night cream?" "What are age spots and how do I avoid them/get rid of them?" So, I thought I would blog a bit about what I've learned (from reading a lot of magazines and going to a lot of spas) about what we need for our age. So, I'm not a dermatologist, of course, and everyone has their own opinions about skincare.

So, keep in mind a few things as you read on. First off, I am a firm believer in "mental age" as opposed to physical age. You truly only are as old as you feel. Yes, some days I feel like I'm 88. But, most days, I try to live with the positivism, energy and enthusiasm of someone whose most important events in the day are the milk, cookie and nap hour! Second, I think we each know what our skin needs - what feels good? What doesn't feel good? What works, despite the fact that it doesn't feel good? :) So pay attention to what you see and feel!

On the other hand, there are physical things going on with our skin and bodies as we age. We should pay attention to that knowledge and use it where we can and where it makes sense. So ... here goes: (Oh ... and note that every single one of these pictures is of the SAME model at age 20, only changed with makeup, outfit and lighting!)

Your Twenties:

The sun is absolutely your biggest enemy. Most of the damage we incur to our skin occurs during this period of time and most of us really didn't know that. So if you know someone in their twenties (or you are in your twenties), be sure to understand the value of SPF and the different types in your skincare regimen. Acne can still be a problem because of the overproduction of sebum (skin "oil"). Peppermint oil has anti-inflammatory properties for oily and acne-prone skin. In your later years, this will become beneficial for firming and toning the skin.

It's important to establish a skin care regimen here. You want to promote and assist the skin's natural functions so that you'll have great looking skin into your sixties. You have to cleanse day and night and you should moisturize at least during the day, with an SPF. Drink lots of water, get a good night's sleep. Don't smoke and don't over-drink. You probably should not be exfoliating at this age because the rate of cell turnover in the outer layers of your skin is still pretty good. As you get closer to your thirties, you might want to consider a light exfoliant.

Your Thirties:

Nearly all of the damage that will occur to your skin has occurred. Most of it is due to overexposure to the sun. During this period, cell regeneration begins to slow. Fine lines begin to develop and, as you approach the end of your thirties, those fine lines begin to become more pronounced. Your skin might begin to get a bit drier (toward the later period of your thirties). It is also extremely important to establish a skin care regimen because you can still assist the skin's natural functions.

You can also still use a light hydrator at night. You want to use a gentle exfoliating product during this time to help cell regeneration, but don't overdo it. Exfoliation helps clear your pores, stimulate your skin cells and sloughs off dead skin. One of the reasons many of us in our thirties enjoy exfoliants so much is because our skin immediately feels softer, with a more even skin-toned, like it was in our thirties. But don't overdo it! No matter what age, you should do facial masks to help hydrate the skin. Your skin is starting to dry now, so you need to hydrate. Also, over-exfoliating can cause dryness, but just the right amount (once or twice a week) can help your skin actually look and feel more hydrated.

You can also start using topical treatments to target specific problems: fine lines, enlarged pores, redness, uneven skin tone, etc. This is where you have to see what works best for you and rely on various essential oils that help target those problems. This age is also the time to begin considering Botox for "motion wrinkles" where the skin folds in areas of facial movement.

Your Forties:

Hyperpigmention from sun exposure now becomes more pronounced. Skin elasticity begins to decrease and your skin becomes even drier. Fine lines become more visible and new fine lines develop in various areas.

Now, free radicals are a byproduct of oxidation that damages skin and accelerates the aging process. This is why antioxidants are so important. This is where all of those crazy coenzyme Q10 and peptide products I was trying to understand in earlier blogs come into play. They neutralize free radicals, thus slowing the aging process. You want to also use natural fruit acids (pineapple, grapefruit, passion fruit, lime, raspberry), which speed cell regeneration and stimulate the formation of collagen and elastin.

It is now crucial that you use a morning and a night moisturizer.

Your Fifties and Beyond:

Cell regeneration has really slowed and you skin becomes much thinner. Fine lines are now wrinkles (I prefer to call them "wisdom lines"). Skin not only becomes drier, but is less able to retain moisture. Skin can become more sensitive and easily irritated.

Now, it is imperative that you avoid sun and wind exposure and continue to use sunscreen. Use hydrating masks to soothe and revitalize the skin. Use moisturizers high in essential oils to help keep skin soft and smooth looking. Hormone replenishment is also important for youthful looking skin. You can also use a light moisturizer throughout the day, as well, without really damaging your makeup. I have some recommendations if you'd like - just email me.

Now is also the time to consider peels and deep exfoliators, but not to the point of chronic skin irritation. That will help keep your skin from looking and feeling dull and dry. Again, hydration masks are very important. I also strongly recommend illuminizing skin care products, but do stay away from shiny eye shadow - that only highlights the wrinkles! Be sure to also use products with Alpha-Hydroxy Acids. They have been shown to clinically thicken skin by 25%. Very important at this age. Also, be sure to protect that delicate eye area with appropriate topical treatments that relate to your concerns - probably wrinkles and/or hyper-pigmentation.